Saturday, April 25, 2015

Low Start to Fotowa 8a (v11) Project Sent!



My two season project, the low start to Fotowa 8A (v11), has finally been accomplished.  I had a trip planned for the Red River Gorge and knew I had to get it sent before I put a solid week of sport climbing under my belt.  With that amount of time on endurance routes at the Red, I knew it would cut into my bouldering performance.  It was a race against the onslaught of the spring weather conditions and I knew I would have only a few opportunities to get the send.

Winter taking over Great Barrington

Before the 4 month long winter freeze that forced my bouldering aspirations westward into Red Rock Canyon in Las Vegas, I made decent progress on Fotowa.  I could make it to the thin rail crimp almost every time, but I couldn't pull the trigger on the v9 power move to the slot.  My left hand would blow off the crimp and take a chunk out of my knuckles each time.  There wasn't enough tape to keep the blood from flowing at times.  After countless trips and failed attempts, it was too late for the send in 2014; the Northeast was at the mercy of one of the coldest and snowiest winters on record.

Defeated and disheartened, I took to the indoors to train and to train hard.  Through my failed attempts, I learned my weaknesses.  I focused my energy on core training and explosive power development on thin holds.  For this, I utilized my favorite training regimen: the small campus rungs (training video to come soon).  The core training was more basic such as scissor kicks, leg lifts, and tons of crunches.

Back to training out the weaknesses.

Fast forward through 4 months of training, I was about 1 week away from my trip to the Red River Gorge.  A perfect opportunity came along for me to get out of work and head up to Great Barrington, Fotowa's home.  A few warm-ups in and it was go time for the day's purpose.  It didn't take long for my muscles to remember the sequence.  After about a dozen tries and some mental frustration I told myself only a few more attempts before I would move on for the day.  I told myself that if I get to the v9 rail crimp move that I would put everything I had into it and "leave it all on the table" so that I could at least accept failure knowing I put my all into it.  Except the last go was the best go and there was no more failure. 


It's such a great feeling to unlock a sequence and finally be able to let go of something that has become a borderline obsession.  There is an emotional attachment to something you have spent so much time an energy into working on.  Slowly but surely another route or problem will come my way that I will obsess over until accomplished.  I will keep doing this season after season until my body gives up.

Wednesday, March 18, 2015

Julbo USA Visionaries Team Ambassador

Sporting the Julbo Dolgan shades out at Red Rock Canyon, Las Vegas, NV

It's my privilege to get to announce I get to be an ambassador for Julbo USA, the sickest, baddest performance eye wear makers out there!  I am teaming up with them on their Julbo Visionaries team for 2015.  Luckily for me, I got on board just in time for my trip to Red Rock Canyon in Las Vegas where the sun was abundant and hot.

With all the time I spend outdoors, I need good quality eye wear to protect my eyes.  Being a rock climber tends to have your vantage point always looking upward and sometimes right into direct sunlight.  But sunglasses aren't just about protecting your eyes, they're also about having comfort and style.  And Julbo has some of the best styles I've ever seen!


Stay tuned to The Spray Down to find out what adventures my Julbos embark on with me this season!

Sunday, February 8, 2015

Daniel Woods Wins 1st Place at ABS 16...If it Were the 2013 Rules Though

(Screen grab from video on LT11 YouTube channel)

This post is not meant to take any glory away from the champions at ABS 16 National Championships.  It is only an observation made of the scoring rule changes for this year's event.

If anyone was watching the ABS 16 National Championships last night, they might have noticed the rather displeased Daniel Woods.  Yes he was National Champion for the 9th time, but with that designation comes a caveat.  He was the National Champion because Mohammad Jafari Mahmodabadi, who came in first, could not be crowned due to the rules that don't allow foreign nationals to hold the ABS title.

This, however was not what left Mr. Woods peeved.  It was the change in the scoring system.  If this competition had occurred under the USA Climbing Rule Book from 2013 the order of the top three male finishers would look much different (women's podium did not change for either scoring system).  It would have been Woods for 1st place, O'Rourke for 2nd place, and Mahmodabadi coming in 3rd place.  How did I come to this completely different outcome?  Let me break it down for you according to the 2013 rule book.

First you rank by highest number of tops (finishes), in which there was a 3 way tie among Mahmodabadi, O'Rourke, and Woods.  The rule book states that with a tie at total tops then you rank by total number of controlled holds (1.0 point/hold).  According to the chart below: Woods-41 points, O'Rourke-33 points, and Mahmodabadi-31 points.  So, there you have it!  The final order would have been Woods, O'Rourke, then Mahmodabadi....if it were last year of course!  This is not meant to take anything away from Mohammad though, he was absolutely spectacular while competing and it would be great to see more of him in upcoming competitions.  It all comes down to the new scoring system being complex and not easily determined in real time by the competitors or spectators.  Below is the final score determined by the new scoring system:



I can assume that everyone who looked at the final scores couldn't make heads or tails of it without looking at how they calculated it in the rule book.  Here is the link to how it was scored according to the new scoring rules (ABS 16 Scoring Explained).  Get your calculator ready and make sure it has a square root button, you'll be hitting that one often to check the final scores for yourself.  I have no clue why it is calculated this way but I am sure there is a good explanation.  Spectators and viewers of the finals seemed very confused on the scoring as well (ClimbingNarc site) and thought Woods would have been the outright winner.

Regardless of the scoring system, the competitors put on one hell of a show with Alex Puccio and Daniel Woods retaining their titles as Champions for the 9th time.  Also putting on a great show were the production crew at Louder Than 11, and the announcers Pete Ward and Brian Runnels.  Watch the finals round below.






Tuesday, January 13, 2015

Climbing Shoes Too Tight?



We, as climbers have been told for years that your climbing shoes need to be painfully tight for the perfect fit so that we can be awesome at rock climbing.  A well form fitted climbing shoe may improve one's climbing but a overly tight painful fit can cause problems long term.  This could actually be harming your feet more than you think especially if you have already pre-existing conditions.  Here are some of the conditions that can be caused by wearing too tight of footwear:






Hammertoes: a contraction or bending of the joints on one or multiple toes.  Hammertoes can form if the toes are too long and are forced into a cramped position when a tight shoe is worn.  While hammertoes are flexible and can be treated but if left untreated can lead to a surgical situation.











DS00309,DS00033_IM02092-mcdc7_bunionthu.jpg

Bunions: I used to only think old people (no offense!) got these, but they can happen to young and old alike.  A bunion is when your big toe joint becomes enlarged an crowds against your other toes.  The force from your big toe then forces the bone outward as shown in the photo.  A bunion can develops from the pressure on the foot when force into tight narrow pointed shoes, which is basically what climbing shoes do.




Calluses:  One of the most common toe ailment of climbers and is often referred to as "climber's toe". These calluses are hard small patches of thickened dead skin with a hard center.  These are caused by the rubbing of the skin in a very tight fitted shoe.



Ingrown toenails: These are one of the most gruesome and possibly dangerous of toe problems.  An ingrown toenail can be caused by constant pressure placed on the toenail, which then causes it to dig and cut into the skin.  Many times this can lead to a puss filled infection that can pop like a stepped on Boston Creme doughnut!






The next time you jam your little piggies into your overly tight climbing shoe, remember you can be causing your feet more problems than the number of sends that day.  While wearing your climbing shoes, keep your feet snug, pain free, and give 'em a break between tries.  And for the sake of everyone's nostrils, keep your feet clean and stink free!






Some images used from:  http://www.foothealthfacts.org

Tuesday, January 6, 2015

On The Rocks: Great Barrington Bouldering


This post is about a brief excerpt of some of Great Barrington's awesome boulder problems.  The winter can be one of the best time for sends or the worst if the temp drops too far below freezing.  In this clip I am able to catch these sends at the perfect temps.  Stay tuned to The Spray Down for more videos coming soon!

Tuesday, December 23, 2014

Workbag: The Dirtbag Evolved



Cedar Wright's "The Wright Stuff: Death of Dirtbagging" really got me thinking about the dirtbag lifestyle and how it is diminishing.  But one thing that is hanging up in my mind is that dirtbagging isn't dying, it is actually evolving.  Like any species, over a period of time, it can undergo an adaptive change to environmental stressors.  Rock climbing, as well, has also undergone changes in the past century, with most of those changes happening in the past 20 or so years.  So if we are to consider rock climbing as the dirtbag's environment, we must assume that the dirtbag has to evolve as well.  That evolution has lead to the "workbag".

A workbag, by my definition, is a person who works the typical 40 hour work week for the main purpose of getting to the next rock climbing destination.  Workbags understand that they will never be the mega famous rock climbers of the world (ie Chris Sharma) and will have to sacrifice their time at the crag to raise enough dough to support other things in their lives (health/car insurance, fuel, utilities, food, family, travel, etc.).  Wages are not going up as fast as the prices of the aforementioned obligations, so finding a steady career/job is the only way to keep up. 

One of the biggest stressors that caused the evolution to the workbag was probably the rise of social media.  Professional rock climbers such as Cedar Wright, Jimmy Webb, Paul Robinson, Chris Sharma, etc., etc., started discovering and showcasing amazing climbing destinations throughout the world. Climbers had the desire to also visit these places but were limited in mobility due to the high costs of fuel, hotel/camping arrangements/hostels, and not to mention the highest cost of all: CLIMBING GEAR!  Dreams and fantasies of traveling the world to these surreal climbing destinations disappear in a cloud of chalk dust when the total cost to get to these places is revealed.  Not all climbers can be sponsored and given a free ticket to explore the world's hidden crags.  Some have to work more and sacrifice the time that could be spent climbing.

Workbags have become plentiful and are easily spotted.  They can be found training in the gyms on weeknights between the hours of 6 and 9 pm and are usually dressed like your traditional dirtbag.  But on days (or summers if they are a teacher) off they can only be found outside at their nearest crag or boulder field.  If we keep with the theme of biological classification, the genus this species (workbag) can be found under the genus title, Weekend Warriors.

But this doesn't mean these workbags aren't dedicated and passionate climbers.  It only means times have changed and so must the general population of climbers.  So if you're a workbag, or even a dirtbag, it doesn't define your passion for climbing, it only defines your amount of time you have to dedicate to the sport.


Sunday, December 14, 2014

Power Struggle Season 9 Promo



The Power Struggle returns at Prime Climb in Wallingford, CT on January 10, 2015 for its 9th season!  This is one of the most challenging and exciting comps that I have ever competed in.  Every year it seems more and more talent rises through the ranks to challenge for one of the coveted plywood plaques to claim domination over the event.  There are tons of awesome sponsors this year that are helping make this one of the most badass comps in New England!  The Spray Down will be back again to film for highlights of this year's event.  Come check it out to compete or even to just stop by and watch an intense finals showdown!  Take a quick look at the promo for this season's event below!