Tuesday, February 19, 2013

Moon Fingerboard Review

Moon Fingerboard ready-to-go!

Recently, a friend and fellow climber Galina Parfenov (Moon Climbing Team member) proved to me that I needed to be training on the Moon Fingerboard (Moon Climbing Website) at home since I climb too much at the gym and don't leave enough time or energy to do hangboard exercises.  There is a Moon fingerboard at our gym, which I like to use but do not train on extensively.  So, I put one up in my house to train on my off days of crushing plastic at my local gym (damn New England weather!).  

Look at those crimps and slopers, my hands are salivating (sweating really but salivating sounds better)!

The Moon Fingerboard is a very difficult hangboard, which I feel would be suitable for climbers that climb harder than 5.11 or v6 in the gym.  There are some pros and cons to training with the Moonboard.  I'll start with the pros first:

1. Almost all holds are useful on the board.  I say "almost" because there is a single 2 finger shallow pocket in the lower center of the board that I don't really know what to do with.  I feel I would only use this on uneven lock-offs but don't necessarily need to use it for that exercise.

2. Has 2 nice open hand slopers that keep your hands in the open position for pull-ups.

3. Has very small crimps (my strong suit and what I prefer to climb on)

4. Has the exact difficulty level I prefer for a hangboard without all of the useless holds and pockets.

Reminds me of the Stay-Puft Marshmallow Man from Ghostbusters


1. Does not have warm-up (meaning large) holds.  My hands have to be warmed up significantly before starting on the easiest holds.  This can easily be fixed by just adding a couple of screw on pinches or jugs to my board.

2. See entry 1 under Cons because that is the only negative I could find with this hangboard.

Overall I felt that this fingerboard is definitely designed for the advanced climber looking to up their game on the really tough crimps in their life.  I also feel like I get an improvement in my contact strength on really tough dynamic moves to really small holds.  Basically this board gets the job done without adding a large amount of unnecessary pockets and holds; a minimalist's dream so to speak!