Saturday, March 2, 2013

Campus Board Training: Advanced Movement

Last year's extremely mild winter spoiled us climbers into thinking this winter would be the same and we would all be climbing in low to mid 40 degree temperatures.  Little did we know we would be dealing with more than 4 feet of snow throughout this winter.  So, I decided to use this time to focus on what I wanted to improve with my climbing so I could keep my psyche up for new projects when the snow cleared.  I trained in the gym (Prime Climb) and trained hard for the projects that I have planned for this year.  Some areas I wanted to improve upon was my power/power endurance, crimp/finger strength, and contact strength.  I have worked on several routines while training but the main area I focused on was the campus rungs.

After working on campus rungs for a while (previous video of Campus Board Training Sessions), I started to hit a plateau and needed to revamp my workout.  I worked on a few different movements and started to work more on the smallest (difficult) of rungs.  I also added a warm up workout (Moon fingerboard dynamic movement among holds) before the campus rungs and an intense workout after on the Atomik Holds (Bombs and Cannon Bomb).

Moon Fingerboard

The workout routine is as follows (after warming up climbing for approx. 1hr before routine):

1.) Start on various spots of Moonboard and start doing dynamic movements and end in a pull-up lock-off.  I keep the movements going for about 20 seconds and do 5 sets of these.

2.) Campus workout 1st: Power skip that consists of skipping 2 rungs (2 to 5 double arm). (4 sets)

3.) Campus workout 2nd: Off-set skip.  This builds balance and puts more workload on the lead arm. (4 sets)

4.) Campus workout 3rd: 1,3,6,8 movement.  This is a similar to the 1,3,6,7 movement except the second move involves a stronger lock-off and movement of one arm from the 3 position to the 8 position (5 rungs).  (4 sets)

5.) Campus workout 4th: Random movement on most difficult rungs.  I do this to get my fingers used to the small, painful rungs. (2 sets)

6.) Campus workout 5th: 2,3,6 movement on difficult rungs.  I feel this gave me better contact strength with smaller crimps. (3 sets)

7.) Atomik Bomb workout: Bicep negatives.  I start pulled up on both arms locked and then release 1 arm and as slowly as possible lower myself down.  This workout is definitely painful but I feel like I am getting a good workout here. (2 sets, 1 per arm)

8.) Atomik Cannon Bomb: Compression dead hang: This workout gets me used to the compression.  I hold the dead hangs for 5 seconds.  (4 sets)

8.) Atomik Cannon Bomb: Compression pull-ups.  (5 sets of 5 pull ups).

9.) Cool down climb on the bouldering wall, while focusing on slow locking movements.

Large bomb hold on left, cannon bomb on right.

Each of these workouts had a resting period of 3-5 minutes depending on recovery.  I only perform this once per week since I am getting outside more often and due to the intensity of the routine.  I know that most don't like to perform negative movements on campus rungs or other holds due to the intensity and dangers involved.  However, I feel this gives me more strength gains when performing these.  Campus training can be dangerous, especially the advanced movements listed here so take caution if pain is occurring during the workouts.  I hope this routine can be used by others to build more power and strength in their climbing.